Sunday, 8 July 2012

of earthquakes and ostriches



Mmm. So we experienced an earthquake for the first time since we've moved into our current flat. And it was a big one! 7.0 on the Richter scale, but apparently because it was so deep, there was no damage, just a lot of rattling around (interestingly enough the one that hit Christchurch was 6.3, but directly below the surface of the city). The quake was also centred off the Taranaki coast, about 400km from where we are. Apparently there was another quake the next day of 5.7 magnitude, but we didn't feel it, also very deep. It was just another reminder of the volatility of the piece of land we're on and how much we are at the mercy of nature, and how despite our technology and toys we are essentially helpless in the face of raw natural power. For us a simultaneously disturbing and comforting fact :-)

Anyhoo.


We had the strangest, loveliest day yesterday. We walked to the cliffs next to the sea and then turned inwards to the hills and completed an epic walk up to the wind turbines. It was a magnificent day; sunny and misty at the same time with the moistened hills glistening in the bits of sunlight that would break through every once in a while.
Strangely enough, we came across a male ostrich (in Wellington?!) behind a fence who, as soon as he spotted us, went down on his knees and preformed a rather spectacular mating dance. After I got over my initial blushes I at least managed to take a video :)
It is rare to see a male doing the mating dance, unless you live on an ostrich farm of course, but to have them do it for you is something I have never heard of. To see hundreds of males in the wild doing it at the same time is something to behold, and something I have only ever seen on Discovery channel.

So here are some pics of the day's adventure:

Look at the snow! Those are the Kaikoura ranges on the South Island.








See the red rocks? Here is the Maori legend as to how NZ originated:

The legend of Maui and the magic fishhook.
 
Maui was a demi-god, who lived in Hawaiiki. He possessed magic powers that not all of his family knew about.
One day when he was very young, he hid in the bottom of his brothers' boat in order to go out fishing with them. Once out at sea, Maui was discovered by his brothers, but they were not able to take him back to shore as Maui made use of his magic powers, making the shoreline seem much further away than it was in reality.
So the brothers continued rowing, and once they were far out into the ocean Maui dropped his magic fishhook over the side of the waka. After a while he felt a strong tug on the line. This seemed to be too strong a tug to be any ordinary fish, so Maui called to his brothers for assistance.
After much straining and pulling, up suddenly surfaced Te Ika a Maui (the fish of Maui), known today as the North Island of New Zealand. Maui told his brothers that the Gods might be angry about this, and he asked his brothers to wait while he went to make peace with the Gods.
However, once Maui had gone his brothers began to argue among themselves about the possession of this new land. They took out their weapons and started pounding away at the catch. The blows on the land created the many mountains and valleys of the North Island today.
The South Island is known as Te Waka a Maui (the waka of Maui). Stewart Island, which lies at the very bottom of New Zealand, is known as Te Punga a Maui (Maui's anchor), as it was the anchor holding Maui's waka as he pulled in the giant fish.

 The red rocks are said to be the fish's blood as the brothers beat it with their weapons.
 









Devil's Gate



Bianca and I slogging up the first hill!





























Radar tower on one of the hills. Looked to me like a James Bond villain's hideout.




An ostritch...as you would naturally find on any old hill in Wellington...






Monday, 2 July 2012

Acolytes of the Flux


“Belize: Hell or heaven?

[Roy indicates "Heaven" through a glance]

Belize: Like San Francisco.

Roy Cohn: A city. Good. I was worried... it'd be a garden. I hate that shit.

Belize: Mmmm. Big city. Overgrown with weeds, but flowering weeds. On every corner a wrecking crew and something new and crooked going up catty corner to that. Windows missing in every edifice like broken teeth, fierce gusts of gritty wind, and a gray high sky full of ravens.

Roy Cohn: Isaiah.

Belize: Prophet birds, Roy. Piles of trash, but lapidary like rubies and obsidian, and diamond-colored cowspit streamers in the wind. And voting booths.

Roy Cohn: And a dragon atop a golden horde.

Belize: And everyone in Balencia gowns with red corsages, and big dance palaces full of music and lights and racial impurity and gender confusion. And all the deities are creole, mulatto, brown as the mouths of rivers. Race, taste and history finally overcome. And you ain't there.

Roy Cohn: And Heaven?

Belize: That was Heaven, Roy.”


 - Tony Kushner, "Angels in America"

Saturday, 30 June 2012

Pathways of the Sun

These are just some photos that I took while following in the footsteps of Dean Liprini, the guy who discovered a network of sacred sites on Table Mountain and other parts of the Cape peninsula and coastal areas of South Africa. You can check out this website, http://www.sunpath.co.za/, but it is terribly thin and little bit lame considering the subject (the book, 'Pathways of the Sun' is way better), which kept me on the mountain many weekends, searching for these difficult-to-find sites.

They are also shots of one of the most beautiful places on earth, in my opinion.

The Sentinel in Hout Bay












Like a postcard right? This is Dwarskerbosstrand on the West Coast


Lion's Head, Signal Hill, the City Bowl and in the distance Robben Island and the Atlantic Ocean. Taken from the saddle between Table Mountain and Devil's Peak, looking west.


The veiw to the east of the saddle, overlooking the southern suburbs and the Cape Flats. That's the Indian Ocean towards the top right-hand corner.







The 'Nefretiti' rock formation




Lion's Head through the gap in the above formation


An unexpected profile, or at least one that wasn't in Liprini's book.



















The join at the Muizenberg dolmen













The view north of the dolmen, overlooking Muizenberg beach



The view south, looking across the Indian Ocean to Simonstown



Kalk Bay Harbour







A natural crack in the face of Table Mountain up through which a path is cut, named Platteklip Gorge. You can't see it in the photo but the cloud was actually being sucked down the gorge in a mesmerising spiral, something I'd never seen before. That's why I'm pointing like a dork.




This was just a magical day. It was cloudy, then sunny, hazy then clear, windy, then dead still and all the while light kept on breaking though in these magnificent curtains, which of course the camera does no justice to.   










Another dolmen, this time on the face of Table Mountain. I know it just looks like a fallen rock, but this one is actually an 'official' site or, at least, it made it into Liprini's book.







Overlooking Camps Bay on the west coast of the peninsula